by Rose O’Keeffe
“I, the lonely Irish poet, will now never die.
In the wind and through the river my words echo forever…”
This is an excerpt of a poem my classmates and I wrote atop William Butler Yeats’ tower at Thor Ballylee in County Galway. As we departed from O’Hare’s international terminal on St. Patrick’s Day 2023, little could we anticipate the tremendous camaraderie, beautiful views, and long-term inspiration we would derive from this short-term study abroad in Ireland. By “we” I mean the twenty of us in DePaul’s first-year abroad Travel Literature class, taught by Professor Barbara Schaffer, in which we capped off our winter quarter class with a weeklong galivant through Ireland.
When I first heard about the program, I thought it was too good to be true. ‘I get to make new friends, learn about travel writing, and take a trip?’ Madness, I thought. Much to my excitement, all these aspects were curated for DePaul freshman, like me, who yearned to get out of their comfort zone in an educational setting.
Being a proud Irish American was a key cultural component in my upbringing, which is one of the reasons I applied to this program. I was raised with a deep appreciation of Irish music, storytelling, witty expressions, and lively celebrations. Ireland is family to the O’Keeffe’s. After being immersed in various parts of the country, I can assuredly say that this little island across the Atlantic that I have shrouded in so much lore and fantasy is now a tangible source of inspiration I continue to carry with me. I will never forget driving into Galway on what was, for the most part, a dreary day that miraculously turned golden as we approached Snoozles Hostel. I would like to think this shift in weather was symbolic of what fun adventures were to come.
Staying in a variety of travel accommodations proved one of the most practical pieces of travel-savvy from the trip. The first of many welcome surprises was the charm of the Galway hostel. No, I do not just mean Tom, the dreamy desk attendant who mesmerized even the weariest of travelers with his gruff facial hair and keen interest in art. More than that, the hostel was a valuable introduction to European travel on a budget. We all slept, ate, and prepared for the days in close quarters which forced us to get comfortable with each other and develop a friendly rapport that set a tone for the entire trip. I was so pleased with how the group bonded in this environment. We debriefed the travel day and discussed our first impressions of Galway in our humble bunk beds before turning in. I was part of a community, which was a comfort I did not know I needed. Though we later lived like royalty in our brief stay at Ballyseede castle in Tralee, the hostel was one of my favorite experiences. I look forward to spontaneously stopping at hostels during future travels because now I know they are a cheaper option that I quite fancy.
Apart from the accommodations, Galway taught me all about “the craic” in Ireland! As a newfound community of travelers, we relished shopping and dining on Quay Street, occasionally pinching ourselves to make sure we weren’t having a Guinness-induced daydream. Though I loved every second in Galway, I found myself increasingly curious about the rural parts of Ireland we would encounter later in the trip.
The Irish people we encountered were very kind and accommodating. Going in with such high expectations of hospitality and courtesy, I was not at all let down. I was surprised, though, at the efficiency of dining and shopping experiences. Occasionally, a waiter would start chatting and ask where we were from, but at most places, the food came fast, the tea was hot, and that was about it. I had no problem at all with this, but I was always ready with some small talk just in case.
I also found it interesting to compare different Irish people’s attitudes toward America. My friend Paige and I stopped to chat with the owner of a quaint antique jewelry shop in Cork City, an older woman named Mona. She had recently visited her son in Houston and hated the traffic. Mona much-preferred walkable urban hubs like Chicago. Mona did not refrain from calling our very own Donald Trump a “Feckin Eejit madman,” (I’ll let you translate) which we both assured her was an understatement. She admitted, though, that Americans are generally fine people, just as we think Irish people are.
Next was a cab driver named Jonathan who drove 4 of us in Dublin from historic Kilmainham Jail to Trinity College on one of our last days. He had never been to America and expressed no desire to go. Jonathan believed he had everything he could ever need or want in his home country, and after visiting, I hardly blame him. Finally, Connor—our dashing coach driver to the Dublin airport—was enthralled by his travels in America. He even questioned why we would travel to Ireland because of America’s size and geographic diversity. Connor thought Americans had it all. I found these three varying perspectives both fascinating and humbling. As someone who is curious about other cultures and ways of life, I would encourage people to visit the U.S. As much as I cling to my Irish heritage and European roots, it is difficult to imagine not being raised in America. As I strive to become a seasoned traveler, I will remember to get to know the people in order to really understand the place.
One of my top three favorite parts of the trip was visiting W.B. Yeats’ tower at Thor Ballylee. The contrast between bustling Galway and serene Ballylee was striking. The green pastures, grazing cows, and sweet smell of burning peat brought tears to my eyes and shivers to my spine. I was really in Ireland. The land of my longing was finally in my midst. I have never felt more grateful. I will never forget writing a group poem where Yeats himself lived and worked. Many of my classmates and I could understand why this tower, surrounded by a babbling brook and green pastures, would be an inspiration for Yeats’ prolific writing. I felt closer to my family, closer to my new friends, and more in tune with myself when all was quiet and green atop that ancient tower. In the group poem, I included a line from my late uncle’s original poem titled “The Lonely Irish Poet.” I know he would have adored the history we were experiencing and would have jumped at the chance to create art in such a meaningful location with us. Here, we gained context about how literature speaks to people across the globe. The stories of one man from Ireland reached all corners of the world, and we just happened to write poetry in the very place where he did. What a gift. To top it all off, the tea and soda bread provided by the towers’ curators, Nichola and Anna, was a simple, yet moving gesture that made my Irish eyes smile.
Since this was a short-term study abroad, we had a packed itinerary that quite literally included planes, trains, automobiles, and ferries on any given day. JJ, short for Johnjo, was our personal bus driver for three days as we traveled from Galway to Cork. When I am next in Ireland, my first line of business will be calling up our good friend JJ and asking him to drive me around the island. Maybe it is just me, but his voice and manner of speaking reminded me of Uncle Colm from the hit Netflix comedy “Derry Girls!” Once I made the connection, I could not shake it. After only the first few miles, JJ already told us his whole life story. He had three daughters, all married to good local boys, and now had children of their own. After a day or so, he ran out of personal stories, so he explained the Troubles in Northern Ireland as we drove through the scenic countryside. This is another instance of history being so engrained in Irish culture, to a degree that does not exist in America. I genuinely enjoyed JJ’s knowledgeable commentary and always think of our coach experiences fondly. JJ embodied the Irish hospitality and Irish pride that I was hoping to encounter. When we returned home, I could not wait to tell my family and friends all about JJ from Kilkenny and his stories.
From now until I am old and gray, this trip will be a source of nostalgic longing. I am proud of our group’s cohesion amid new surroundings, Irish weather, and some food poisoning (I won’t go into detail). I am forever grateful to Professor Schaffer and our staff professional Katy Weseman for allowing me to be a part of this trip. I gained new friends, new knowledge, and the itch to keep on traveling. Slainte!!
THE SOJOURNAL 